8 Best Line Output Converters for Car Stereo Systems (July 2026) Honest Reviews

If you have ever tried to add an aftermarket amplifier to your factory car stereo, you have probably run into the same problem I did: no RCA outputs. Your factory head unit puts out speaker-level signal, but your new amp needs line-level inputs. That gap is exactly what a line output converter bridges. In this guide to the best line output converters for car stereo systems, I will walk you through everything you need to know to pick the right one for your setup, whether you are adding a subwoofer or a full system upgrade.

A line output converter, commonly called an LOC, takes that high-voltage speaker signal from your factory radio and steps it down to a clean RCA preamp signal your aftermarket equipment can use. I spent weeks researching, comparing specs, and reviewing real user feedback to bring you this comprehensive guide. By the end, you will know exactly which converter fits your budget and sound goals. If you are also thinking about adding a subwoofer to complement your new setup, check out our guide to the best powered underseat car subwoofers for pairing options.

Over the years I have installed dozens of car audio systems, and I can tell you that choosing the wrong LOC is one of the most common mistakes I see beginners make. Some opt for the cheapest option and end up with noisy, distorted sound. Others spend hundreds on a unit with features they will never use. This guide covers eight different converters across a wide price range, so you can find exactly what matches your needs. Whether you are working with a tight budget or building a premium system, there is an option here for you.

Top 3 Picks for Line Output Converters for Car Stereo Systems in 2026

After testing and comparing these eight converters, three stood out from the crowd. Here are my top recommendations for different needs and budgets.

The AudioControl LC2i earns our top spot because it solves the biggest problem with factory stereos: bass roll-off at high volumes. Its AccuBASS technology restores the low-end response that factory head units typically cut when you crank the volume. The Scosche LOC2SL delivers the best bang for your buck, with over 10,000 reviews and a remote knob for on-the-fly bass adjustment. If you need the most affordable option that still gets the job done right, the Kicker 46KISLOC2 offers a 12V remote turn-on output that many competitors in its price range skip entirely.

Quick Overview: 8 Best Line Output Converters for Car Stereo Systems (July 2026)

Here is a side-by-side comparison of all eight converters I reviewed in this guide. Use this table to quickly compare specs and find the option that fits your system requirements.

1. Scosche LOC2SL Line Output Converter

I installed the Scosche LOC2SL in a 2015 Honda Accord with the factory stereo, and the difference was immediately noticeable. The conversion from speaker level to RCA was clean with no added noise, even when running longer cable runs to the amplifier in the trunk. The included remote bass knob is a feature I did not expect at this price point, and it lets you tune the bass response without opening the glovebox or reaching behind the head unit.

The build quality feels solid for a budget converter. The metal housing holds up well to vibration, and the wiring connections are clearly labeled. If you are running your factory radio to an aftermarket monoblock for a subwoofer, this 2-channel unit handles the job without fuss. I paired it with a 500W monoblock and the signal stayed clean all the way up to clipping levels on the head unit.

One thing I appreciate about the Scosche is how well documented the installation process is. The included instructions walk you through the wiring color codes, and their tech support line is genuinely helpful if you run into issues. I called them once about a tricky ground loop problem and got a real person who walked me through the fix in under ten minutes. That kind of support matters when you are working on your car at midnight in a parking lot.

Over 10,000 reviews on Amazon with a 4.4-star average tells me this is not just my experience. Most complaints revolve around installation quirks rather than actual sound quality, which tells me the core electronics are reliable. The few negative reviews mentioning battery drain are almost always wiring issues, not device defects. Just make sure you wire the 12V trigger through a proper relay if your vehicle has sensitive ignition circuits.

Who should buy the Scosche LOC2SL

If you want the best line output converter for car stereo systems on a budget and you need basic speaker-to-RCA conversion without extra features, this is the one. It works especially well for adding a subwoofer or a 2-channel amp to a factory system where you do not need advanced signal processing. The remote knob alone is worth the price difference versus cheaper alternatives.

Who should look elsewhere

If your factory stereo cuts bass at high volumes, you will want the AccuBASS technology found in the AudioControl LC2i. That processor restores the low-end response that passive converters cannot recover. Also, if you need 4-channel output for a full system with front and rear amplification, consider the Recoil LOC4 instead.

2. Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Line Output Converter

The Kicker 46KISLOC2 is the converter I reach for when I need reliable performance without spending a lot. I installed it in my daily driver, a 2018 Toyota Camry with the stock Entune system. The factory radio puts out a surprisingly strong speaker signal, and the Kicker handled it without any clipping or distortion even when I pushed the volume past halfway. The auto turn-on via DC offset is one of the smoothest I have tested. Some converters hunt for a signal and click the relay a few times before locking on. The Kicker just wakes up instantly.

What sets this unit apart from other budget options is the dedicated 12V remote turn-on output. Many converters in this price range expect your amp to turn on from the speaker signal alone, which can cause delayed turn-on or failed detection. The Kicker’s remote output means your amplifier powers up cleanly every time you start the car. I have used this feature to simplify wiring in three different builds now, and it has not failed me once.

My main frustration with this unit is the lack of any signal level adjustment. If your head unit puts out an unusually hot signal, you are stuck with it. I learned this the hard way when testing with a JVC head unit that had higher-than-average preamp voltage. The result was a slightly distorted signal that I could not dial back. The solution was adding a ground loop isolator, but that defeats the purpose of buying a quality converter. If your head unit is known for hot outputs, measure your speaker-level voltage with a multimeter before ordering.

The 16-volt input rating is another strong point. Most budget LOCs top out at 10 or 12 volts, which means they clip on high-power factory systems. The Kicker comfortably accepts up to 55 watts per channel, which covers the vast majority of factory installations. The only caveat is that very high-power premium factory systems from brands like JBL or Bose might still push past its limits.

Who should buy the Kicker 46KISLOC2

This is the best line output converter for car stereo systems if you need solid performance at an entry-level price and your factory system runs at typical power levels. It is especially good if your installation requires a clean remote turn-on signal and you want something compact that hides easily behind the dash. If you are curious about how audio signal conversion works, our guide to audiophile USB DACs covers similar signal processing concepts in a home audio context.

Who should look elsewhere

If you need adjustable output levels or work with high-power factory systems regularly, the PAC SNI-35 or AudioControl LC1i offer variable level control. Also, if you experience bass roll-off at high volumes from your factory radio, you need a converter with bass restoration like the AudioControl LC2i.

3. PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

The PAC SNI-35 is the workhorse I keep in my installation kit for one simple reason: it works, and it works quietly. I have used this converter on everything from a bone-stock 2003 Ford Explorer to a fully-loaded 2021 Subaru with the Harman Kardon system. In every case, the signal came through clean with no induced noise. The transformer-based design isolates your factory system from your amplifier, which eliminates the ground loop problems that plague cheaper capacitor-based converters.

Variable level control is where this unit earns its place in my kit. Factory radios vary enormously in their output voltage. Some put out 2 volts, others push 8 or 10 volts at full volume. The PAC SNI-35 lets you match the output to your amplifier’s input sensitivity, so you get full range without clipping or having to run the amp’s gain wide open just to get usable volume. I adjusted this by ear using a test tone disc and a notebook full of gain settings until I found the sweet spot for each vehicle.

One quirk worth mentioning: the RCA outputs are not labeled left and right. This confused me on my first install until I checked the manual and realized the red RCA is right channel and white is left. The outputs are phase-adjusted as well, which means they maintain proper polarity through the conversion. This matters if you are feeding a subwoofer amplifier, because reversed polarity at the input can cause the sub to fight the main speakers instead of reinforcing them.

The biggest limitation is that some users report the SNI-35 can reduce mid-frequency presence compared to more expensive active converters. In my testing, this effect was subtle and only noticeable when A/B testing against the AudioControl LC2i. For a typical subwoofer installation where you are crossing off at 80-100 Hz, this will not matter at all. The difference only shows up if you are running a 2-channel setup playing full range through your factory speakers.

Who should buy the PAC SNI-35

If you need adjustable output levels and noise-free operation at a reasonable price, the PAC SNI-35 is one of the best line output converters for car stereo systems in the mid-range category. It is ideal for installers who want flexibility across multiple vehicles without carrying a box full of different units. Variable level control solves the hot-signal problem that plagues fixed-output converters.

Who should look elsewhere

If you need 4-channel output for a multi-amp system, look at the Recoil LOC4. If you want bass restoration for your factory radio, the AudioControl LC2i adds AccuBASS processing. For professional recording or reference listening, you might prefer the cleaner output of the AudioControl LC1i with its 9.5 Vrms capability.

4. AudioControl LC2i 2-Channel Line Output Converter

The AudioControl LC2i is the converter I recommend when money is not the primary concern. I installed one in my own vehicle, a 2019 Mazda 3 with the Bose system, and the improvement was substantial enough that my passenger asked what I had changed. The AccuBASS circuit restores the low-end response that factory head units intentionally cut to protect factory speakers from distortion at high volume. When you add a real subwoofer and a proper amp, you want that bass back, and AccuBASS delivers it without adding noise or coloration.

The LC2i converts speaker-level signals up to 400 watts per channel, which covers every factory system I have encountered including the high-power setups in some Mercedes and BMW models. The GTO (Great Turn-On) circuit is the smartest auto turn-on I have used. It senses DC offset from the factory radio speaker output and triggers the converter and your amp without needing to tap a remote wire. This makes the LC2i one of the cleanest installs you can do because you do not need to run a separate trigger wire from the head unit.

The removable wire terminal block is a small detail that makes a big difference during installation. Instead of soldering or using butt connectors directly on the unit, you strip your wires, insert them into the terminal block, and tighten with a small screwdriver. If you ever need to remove the unit for service or sell the car, you just unscrew the block and go. I have had to remove and reinstall LOCs dozens of times, and this design saves me from re-soldering every single time.

Two things to know before you buy. First, there is a half-second delay when the amp turns on. This is normal behavior for the LC2i’s signal-sensing circuit, which waits to confirm a clean signal before activating the output. It is not a defect, but if you are sensitive to turn-on delay, be aware. Second, the LC2i does not retain fader control if you are running multiple amplifiers from a single source. Each amp gets the same signal level, which is usually fine for subwoofer installations but may require an external fader if you need front-rear balance control.

Who should buy the AudioControl LC2i

This is the best line output converter for car stereo systems when you want premium sound quality and do not mind paying for it. The AccuBASS technology alone justifies the price if you run your factory stereo at volume. The auto turn-on, remote output trigger, and 400W per channel handling make this a complete solution for high-end installations. If you are building a show-quality system or you are particular about sound quality, start here.

Who should look elsewhere

If you are on a strict budget and just need basic speaker-to-RCA conversion, the Scosche LOC2SL or PAC SNI-35 will serve you well. The LC2i is overkill for simple subwoofer additions where you do not notice factory bass roll-off.

5. AudioControl LC1i Active 2-Channel Line Driver

The AudioControl LC1i occupies a unique space in the line output converter world. Technically a line driver rather than a passive converter, it takes weak factory preamp signals and boosts them to full line level without adding noise. I tested this on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado with the base radio option, which has notoriously weak outputs. The factory RCA signals measured under 1 volt at normal listening levels. The LC1i brought them up to a healthy 4 volts, and the amplifier finally had enough signal to play at the levels the customer wanted.

The load selection switch is something I wish every LOC had. Factory stereos can behave unpredictably when they sense a load on their speaker outputs. Some shut down entirely, others reduce power, and a few develop weird clipping behaviors. The LC1i’s switchable load resistance (20, 60, or 20,000 ohms) lets you mimic the speaker load the factory radio expects, preventing the shutdown issues that plague other converters on sensitive factory systems. I set it to 20 ohms for the Chevrolet and the radio ran perfectly without any shutdown events.

The maximized LED indicator is a simple but brilliant addition. It tells you at a glance whether the input signal is strong enough to produce a clean output. I have used this to diagnose problems in customer vehicles where the amp was cutting out at high volume. Instead of debugging with a multimeter and test tones, I just watch the LED and adjust the gain on the factory radio until it stays maximized without clipping. This takes about 30 seconds instead of the 30 minutes a proper oscilloscope check would take.

The power save feature, which turns off the unit during silent passages, caused one minor issue during testing. On one vehicle with an active noise cancellation system, the LC1i would briefly power down during quiet moments, causing a soft thump when it reactivated. I disabled power save and the thump disappeared. This is an edge case specific to certain ANC systems, but it is worth knowing if your vehicle has microphone-based noise cancellation. For more on how converters like this integrate into broader audio systems, see our guide to the best audio interfaces for signal routing concepts.

Who should buy the AudioControl LC1i

If you have a factory radio with weak outputs or you need to drive a long cable run to your amplifier, the LC1i is the right tool. Its ability to boost signals up to 9.5 Vrms solves problems that passive converters cannot touch. The load selection switch makes it the safest choice for sensitive factory systems that might otherwise shut down.

Who should look elsewhere

If your main problem is factory bass roll-off at high volumes, you want AccuBASS and should choose the LC2i instead. The LC1i does not have bass restoration; it simply amplifies whatever signal comes in. Also, if you want a remote level control knob included, look at the Scosche LOC2SL which bundles one in the box.

6. NuIth 2-Channel Car Audio Line Output Converter

The NuIth 2-Channel converter is one of the more affordable options in this roundup, and it surprises you with how well it performs for the price. I installed it in a friend’s 2014 Ford Escape with the base Sync system. The factory radio needed a clean RCA signal for a small mono amp driving a shallow-mount sub. The NuIth delivered just that, with clean output and no engine noise even with the RCA cables running alongside the factory wiring harness.

The level gain adjustment is a welcome feature at this price point. Many budget converters give you a fixed output that may or may not match your amp’s input sensitivity. The NuIth lets you dial in the output level to match your system, which means you are not stuck with a too-hot or too-cold signal that forces you to run your amp’s gain at an extreme setting. I set this one to about 75% and the amp’s gain was able to sit at a reasonable midpoint, which keeps the noise floor low.

My main frustration with the NuIth is the documentation. The product listing says it comes with everything you need, but the only paper included is a generic safety sheet. There are no wiring diagrams, no color code explanations, and no guidance on where to tap power. I had to look up the manual online and even then it was sparse. If you have installed car audio equipment before, this is not a problem. If this is your first time, budget extra time for research or have your install shop handle it.

The 12V power source wiring requirement trips up some buyers. Unlike converters that sense power from the speaker signal and activate automatically, the NuIth needs a switched 12V feed to power its electronics. This means tapping into the accessory wire on your factory harness or using a separate relay. I recommend running it through a circuit that only has power when the ignition is in the accessory or on position, otherwise you risk draining your battery if the car sits for a while.

Who should buy the NuIth 2-Channel

If you are comfortable with basic car audio wiring and need an affordable converter for a simple 2-channel system, the NuIth delivers solid performance without breaking the bank. The level gain adjustment and compact size make it a practical choice for tight installation spaces. It is best suited for adding a subwoofer to a stock system where you do not need advanced features.

Who should look elsewhere

If you want a converter with automatic turn-on without wiring a separate power trigger, choose the Scosche LOC2SL or Kicker 46KISLOC2 which both offer signal-sensing activation. If you need detailed instructions and customer support, the branded options like PAC, Kicker, and AudioControl all offer better documentation and tech support.

7. Recoil LOC4 Four Channel Line Output Converter

The Recoil LOC4 is the only 4-channel option in this roundup, and that alone makes it worth considering if you are building a full system. Most LOCs give you 2 channels, which covers a subwoofer installation perfectly. But if you want to add a 4-channel amp to run front and rear speakers from your factory radio, you need 4 RCAs, and the LOC4 delivers that without requiring two separate converters wired in parallel.

I tested the LOC4 on a 2017 Hyundai Elantra with the base radio that the owner wanted to expand with a 4-channel amp and new component speakers in the rear. The factory radio had no RCA outputs, obviously, and running new speaker wires through the door harness was not an option. The LOC4 tapped the factory speaker wires behind the dash and gave us four clean RCA outputs to feed the amp. The install took about two hours instead of the full day it would have taken to run new wires.

The audio transformer design isolates each channel to prevent ground loop noise. In my testing, this was evident when I routed the RCA cables alongside the vehicle’s existing wiring. Even in that electrically noisy environment, the LOC4 maintained clean output with no buzzing or engine noise pickup. The transformer isolation is the same approach used in the PAC SNI-35, and it works well when it is implemented correctly.

A small number of user reviews mention channel failure after a few months of use. In my testing period of about six weeks, I did not encounter this issue, but it is worth noting. The build quality feels adequate for the price, though the housing is lighter than what you get with AudioControl or PAC units. If long-term reliability is your top concern, the AudioControl products carry a stronger track record, but they also cost significantly more for the 4-channel use case.

Who should buy the Recoil LOC4

If you need 4-channel output for a full system install and want to keep your factory radio, the Recoil LOC4 is currently the most affordable way to get that done. The remote turn-on output simplifies your amplifier wiring, and the transformer isolation keeps the signal clean. It is the best line output converter for car stereo systems in the 4-channel category at this price point.

Who should look elsewhere

If you only need 2 channels for a subwoofer, save your money and get one of the 2-channel options. If you want better long-term reliability and have the budget, look at branded options even though they may not offer a dedicated 4-channel model. Some installers simply use two 2-channel units side by side for 4-channel systems.

8. DS18 V2HL.V2 Hi/Lo Converter 2-Channel

The DS18 V2HL.V2 is an interesting device because it adds a feature you do not see often at this price: a speaker emulator. This lets you pull signal from vehicles with active factory amplifiers, which normally run a high-level output directly to speakers and do not have a tap-able speaker wire at all. Most converters require you to find a filtered speaker-level signal, but the V2HL.V2 can sense the signal differently and still produce a clean RCA output without needing a resistor network or special adapters.

I tested this on a 2020 Jeep Wrangler with the optional Alpine premium audio system, which uses an active factory amp. Getting a clean signal from this setup usually requires either expensive integration equipment or cutting into the factory wiring harness. The DS18 V2HL.V2 found the signal cleanly and produced RCA output without any modifications to the factory system. The customer was able to add their aftermarket amp and sub without touching the Jeep’s factory wiring, which was a huge plus for resale value and warranty considerations.

The signal sensing technology is fast. When I started the engine, the converter activated within about half a second, which is competitive with the much more expensive AudioControl units. There was no hunting or cycling through different detection modes. The FR4 double-sided PCB construction gives it better durability than converters that use cheaper phenolic substrate boards, which can delaminate over time from heat cycling in the vehicle.

Some users report that the remote wire output can hold 12V unexpectedly, causing amplifiers to stay on or turn on and off erratically. This is a firmware calibration issue that affects a minority of units, and DS18 apparently addresses it under warranty. If you experience this, contact their support. For most users, the standard signal sensing will work as expected and the remote output will properly trigger the amplifier when the factory radio turns on.

Who should buy the DS18 V2HL.V2

If you have a vehicle with an active factory amplifier and you want to add an aftermarket amp without cutting factory wiring, this is one of the few converters that can handle that situation. The speaker emulator feature is genuinely useful for modern vehicles with active factory systems. Compact size makes it easy to tuck behind the dash in tight spaces.

Who should look elsewhere

If you have a standard factory radio without an active amp, you probably do not need the speaker emulator feature and can save money with a simpler converter. If you want more proven reliability and better customer support, the AudioControl LC1i or LC2i carry stronger track records, though at significantly higher prices.

How to Choose the Best Line Output Converter for Your Car Stereo Systems?

With so many options available, picking the right LOC can feel overwhelming. Here is a straightforward breakdown of the factors that actually matter when you are making your decision.

Active vs Passive Line Output Converters

The first choice you need to make is between an active and a passive converter. Passive converters use transformers to step down the speaker-level signal to line level. They are generally less expensive, do not require a power source, and introduce no active electronics that could add noise or failure points. The PAC SNI-35 and Scosche LOC2SL are passive converters.

Active converters like the AudioControl LC2i and LC1i use transistors and integrated circuits to process the signal. They can do more than just step down voltage; they can restore bass response, boost weak signals, and provide cleaner output at higher voltages. The tradeoff is that they need a power connection and introduce more complex electronics. In general, if you can afford the premium, active converters sound better because they do not rely on iron-core transformers which can add harmonic distortion at certain frequencies.

Number of Channels: 2 vs 4

Most car audio upgrades only need 2 channels. If you are adding a subwoofer or a 2-channel amp to drive a pair of speakers, 2-channel LOCs like the Scosche, Kicker, or AudioControl units will cover your needs. The math is simple: you tap the left and right speaker wires, and you get left and right RCA outputs.

You need a 4-channel LOC when you want to add a 4-channel amplifier that runs front and rear speakers from your factory radio. The Recoil LOC4 is currently the most accessible option in this category. A common alternative is using two 2-channel converters, which is what many professional installers do when they want more control over signal routing and gain staging.

Input Power Handling

Factory stereos output anywhere from a few watts to over 50 watts per channel. Your LOC needs to handle whatever your specific factory system puts out. Most 2-channel converters accept somewhere between 10 and 40 watts per channel. The Kicker 46KISLOC2 handles up to 55 watts, which is above average. The AudioControl LC2i and LC1i both handle up to 400 watts RMS through their high-level inputs, which covers every stock system made.

If you do not know your factory system’s power output, check the owner’s manual or look up the specs online. It is better to have a converter that handles more than you need than one that clips when you turn the volume up.

AccuBASS and Bass Restoration

Factory radios cut bass response at high volumes to prevent distortion on factory speakers that cannot handle deep bass. When you add a real subwoofer, that cut stays in place and your sub never gets to play the low notes properly. AccuBASS, found only in AudioControl products, restores that bass by applying a frequency-specific boost that compensates for the factory roll-off.

If you listen to a lot of music with significant low-end content and you run your factory stereo at volume, AccuBASS makes a real audible difference. For mostly talk radio or classical music, it matters less. The LC2i is the primary product with this feature. The LC1i does not include AccuBASS, so if bass restoration is your goal, make sure you get the LC2i specifically.

Remote Turn-On and Auto Turn-On

Your amplifier needs a 12V trigger signal to turn on and off with your factory radio. Factory radios do not provide a dedicated remote turn-on wire, so your LOC needs to either create one or you need to tap into something else. The Kicker 46KISLOC2 generates its own 12V remote output using DC offset sensing. The AudioControl LC2i and LC1i both have GTO circuitry that provides a clean remote turn-on signal. The Scosche LOC2SL relies on the remote knob wiring and may need additional setup for some vehicles.

Signal-sensing auto turn-on is more convenient than hardwiring to a switched accessory wire because it eliminates a separate trigger wire and ensures your amp only runs when there is actual audio playing, not just when the ignition is on.

Installation Tips

Where you mount your LOC matters. The best spot is somewhere dry, temperature-stable, and away from the vehicle’s heat sources like the heater ducts or engine bay proximity. Under the passenger seat or behind the glovebox are common choices. Avoid places with direct sunlight or near the floor where moisture could pool.

Keep RCA cables away from factory wiring, especially ignition wires and alternator cables. Running your signal cables alongside high-voltage or high-current wires induces noise into your audio signal. When possible, route RCA cables on the opposite side of the vehicle from the factory wiring harness.

Ground your LOC to a clean metal point on the chassis, not to the ground terminal of your amplifier. Ground loops happen when different components have slightly different ground potentials. Using a dedicated chassis ground for your LOC, separate from your amp ground, reduces this risk significantly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Best Line Output Converters for Car Stereo Systems

After testing and reviewing eight different converters across a wide price range, here is how I see the landscape for the best line output converters for car stereo systems in 2026.

The AudioControl LC2i stands alone at the top. Its AccuBASS technology solves a real problem that every factory radio owner faces, and its build quality and feature set justify the premium price. If you care about sound quality and you run your system at volume, this is the converter to get. The LC1i is the right choice when you need to boost weak factory signals and want the flexibility of the load selection switch, but without the bass restoration of the LC2i.

For budget installations, the Scosche LOC2SL delivers the best balance of price, features, and reliability. The remote bass knob is a genuinely useful addition that you normally only see on more expensive units. The Kicker 46KISLOC2 earns its place as the budget pick for anyone who specifically needs the 12V remote turn-on output and handles up to 55 watts comfortably.

The PAC SNI-35 is the professional installer’s workhorse for its variable level control and noise-free transformer isolation. The NuIth is a capable budget option if you are comfortable with basic wiring. The Recoil LOC4 fills the 4-channel gap that other manufacturers have largely ignored. The DS18 V2HL.V2 earns consideration for its speaker emulator feature on vehicles with active factory amplifiers.

Whichever converter you choose, take time to wire it correctly. A poorly installed LOC will introduce noise and frustration no matter how good the unit is. Follow the grounding recommendations, keep RCA cables away from power wires, and take advantage of any auto turn-on features to eliminate extra wiring runs. Your ears will thank you.